I’ve recently returned from a great trip to the north west region of Greenland. As often happens after a long trip away life has become hectic and I’ve only just managed to find the time to write up some notes on our trip.
We, that is Olly Sanders, Nige Robinson and me – Sid Sinfield, set off on July 21st 2010 for a 3 week self contained trip. The exact location for the start and finish of our trip was to be Upernavik, which is north of Disco Bay on the north western side of Greenland. Our aim for the 3 weeks was to circumnavigate 2 islands, Qaersorssuaq and Nutarmiut, depending on ice conditions a total distance of 260km. We also intended to bag a few first ascents of new rock routes in the area.
With no options for resupplying on route we had to fit food, climbing and camping equipment for all 21 days into the 3 Scorpio’s supplied for the trip by P&H. We chose plastic as most landings would be tricky with heavily laden kayaks and the extra durability could well be tested. When our kit was laid out next to the kayaks it certainly looked like it was going to be a pretty tight fit but they managed to swallow it all up admirably! And even though they sat VERY low in the water with the weight they remained manoeuvrable and fast, the rudder system we opted for also proved very robust and reliable.
The style of the expedition was important to us. We had debated the issue of emergency communication; thankfully mobile phones do not work beyond the settlement. Sat phones are an option but expensive and may encourage sneaky conversations with the outside world. The 3 of us wanted to maintain the wilderness experience and the essence of self sufficiency but equally felt that in a dire emergency it would be prudent that help could be reached. Therefore we decided on a VHF radio and Emergency Position Indicator Radio Beacon (EPIRB).
The kayaking was excellent and we paddled every day with the exception of the days spent climbing. In fact we only lost one day stormbound; we kayaked for 16 days app. 5/6 hours per
day. The conditions were mostly calm and sunny we were only forced off the water on one occasion after encountering force 6/7 winds on an exposed headland. The highlights must be; two days paddling through pack ice near the glacier in Upernavik Isfjord the peace and quiet were deafening. The outer coast of Qaersorssuaq was exceptional paddling under 900 meter cliffs broken with waterfalls and westward nothing until Baffin Island.
We knew that climbing would be interesting as trying to find new routes, without too many loose boulders, the necessity not to have to weed the crag to find hand holds and benefitting from some features to receive valued protective hard wear, can often be tricky. However we never envisaged that the hardest aspect would be to find a crag small enough.
Some of the cliffs were 1000mts high (height of Snowdon)straight from the sea we met one climbing group that had spent 11 days scaling one cliff sleeping on porta ledges. With our small amount of kit we were looking for crags up to 300mts high, but we succeeded with names like; Fiord Fiesta, Smear or Disappear, More tea vicar and Get the shooters George ranging from HVS-E2 on excellent granite they will be queuing up for second ascents?
Unfortunately or fortunately we encountered no polar bears, but for flora and fauna in Greenland you have to look a little closer; arctic foxes, who are very good at coming in gangs at night and stealing Olly’s socks they must be desperate! large cod , Shags, Cormorants, Kittiwake, Fulmar, my favourite skilled flyer, Tern, Eider Duck, Snow Bunting, Grey and Black Guillemot are numerous. According to the Saga of Erik the Red, when he landed in Greenland in 982 “he called Greenland, as he said people would be attracted there if it had a favourable name.”Whilst definitely not green the land does host many small flowers and shrubs.
Did I mention theubiquitous ice bergs never really taken for granted the range of shapes is equal to snowflakes? Enchanting until large pieces fall off or they decide to roll over showing there is really 2/3 more of them.
The weather was kind to us unlike the reports from the east coast we only had to move the tent once and get off the water for a few hours due to the wind the rain spared us for all but a few days. Temperatures ranged from hot and sunny to cold and windy but nothing a dry suit or a thick down sleeping bag can’t sort out.
So was it a success, 2 circumnavigations, 6 new rock routes, my furthest north campsite 72° 50’ N overlooking the spectacular Greenland Ice Cap.
Exceptional kayaking scenery, we stayed mates and I think we are alive although it might take a while to engage our brains back into life back home, many thanks to all who made it possible.
Sid Sinfield
